How to Hatch Your Own Chicks and Ducklings
Do you want to learn how to hatch your own baby chicks and ducklings? Then you’ve come to the right place! Follow aloong and you will hatch your own flock in no time.
As my kids grew up on the farm, there was never a more exciting time than when babies were born or hatched. I remember the wonder and amazement in their eyes and it still makes this old farm boy want to share these experiences with everyone. If you cannot raise a baby cow, goat or sheep, you should definitely let your children experience hatching a few chicks or ducks.
If you are in the city, village or town and cannot grow your chickens out, due to ordinances restricting farm animals, just pre-arrange with a local farmer to take them when they get their hard feathers and can be moved outdoors. Trust me, this is something that your kids will never forget and will probably want to continue with their kids.
Anyone Can Hatch Chicks & Ducklings
I am not sure why, but some people seem to believe (or have been made to believe) that hatching chicks and ducks requires a Master’s Degree in Zoology. This is quite untrue, as is the idea that the better the incubator you purchase the more successful you will become. I have not found this to be true either. Here are just a few of the hundreds of incubators that are available on the market…
They are all great products and will hatch your eggs just fine. They will all maintain temperature, humidity and air circulation. Where they really differ is on the amount of labor that will be required on your part.
The eggs will need to be turned several times per day. Some incubators (like the two outer pictures) will actually turn your eggs for you. Others, like the center picture, require you to turn the eggs by hand. I think it is part of the experience though, taking the time to care for the eggs. My kids wanted the involvement and looked forward to turning these eggs by hand every day. I believe that this added to their anticipation and excitement. That being said, let’s turn to what you will need to make this happen for your family.
1.What is required
Temperature 99.5-100 degrees constant. Humidity at 55-65%. Constant air circulation, your chicks require the oxygen that is absorbed through the shells. All of these incubators will give you exactly what you need, do not be intimidated.
2.Get Started
You need to get fertilized eggs from a local farmer or from several suppliers online. I recommend meyerhatchery.com or cacklehatchery.com both of these will give you a very high-quality product that will help you be successful.
Once the eggs are in-house warm them to room temperature before putting them in your pre-warmed incubator, with the water cup filled.
Mark one side of each egg with a small X. This mark is to help remind you that you have turned your eggs, keep them all X up or X down. You should do this even if your incubator has an automatic turner. This will help you to identify a malfunction, and you can turn them by hand if necessary.
Once the eggs are in the incubator, chicken eggs will require about 21 days, while ducks eggs will require about 28 days. Turn the eggs about 5 times per day for best results. Check the water daily.
3.Hatching Day
To see those eggs shaking and rocking is very exciting but do not help, the little critters will use this struggle to make them stronger and in the end, they will be healthier.
They will come out wet so a little more time in the incubator will help them dry off a bit.
When they are completely free from their shell, remove them and put the chicks and ducklings into the brooder that you have prepared. It is fine to open the lid and remove each one as they are ready.
4.The Brooder
A brooder is a temperature controlled environment in which the chicks or ducks can live until they get their “hard” feathers. The babies hatch with fuzz all over their bodies, in a couple of weeks they will be growing real feathers. These feathers will help to keep them warm. They will need wood shavings or shredded newspaper for bedding. You will need a heat lamp until the chicks or ducks have all of their real feathers.
This brooder pictured is a metal water trough, but depending on your available resources it can be a cardboard box. Notice how close the heat lamp is to the ducklings. Make sure that you have room for them to move away from the heat source. It is more important that the chicks can be warm, let them decide if it is too warm.
Feed them a good quality chick starter, ducklings can eat the same food. Have a covered feeder, because they will walk and jump all over it. The waterer should also be low to limit the amount of water that can be spilled at once. I usually start water with just a jar lid. When I have to start feeding and watering more, I fasten them both to the side of the brooder.
5.When to move them outside
Generally speaking, the chicks and ducks will have their hard feathers in about 4 weeks and are better able to maintain their own body temperature and will not need the heat lamp. In 7-9 weeks they are just about bullet-proof. If there is snow and ice, wait to move them. When the weather outside moderates, move them outside to a pen that protects them from predators and a chilly north wind, or give them to a local farmer that you have an arrangement with.
Conclusion
Most importantly, enjoy your family experience. Your children will learn loads of life lessons from this “hatching” experience. Hold your chicks and ducklings, love them, observe them, and never forget how this exposure to nature has changed your life forever! Go on, be brave, hatch something!
Thank you for spending some time with me. I hope you found this post educational and inspiring! If you enjoyed this article please comment and subscribe below!
About the Author
Terry has a Master’s Degree in Business Administration. He has taught in the New York State School system for 18 years, where he teaches Career and Financial Management, Agricultural Business, Marketing and Distribution, Sports Management, Wildlife Conservation Management, and Resort and Recreation Management. His time has also been spent as an FFA advisor for 12 years and he has been farming his 100-acre family farm since 1991. Terry has a deep love of all types of agriculture and takes every opportunity to promote agricultural education.