How to Build a Rabbit-Proof Raised Bed
Overall, our backyard garden did great last year. Our harvest was bountiful, our bug problems were minimal, and things basically went according to plan. One issue we did have though, was vermin. A skunk got into our ground garden and dug up all the plants in an effort to eat the bone meal I used as fertilizer, and then a rabbit came through and buzzed all of our sunflowers and cucumber plants down to nubs. Well not this year! Today I’m going to show you how to build a rabbit-proof raised bed.
A Simple Concept
The concept for this raised bed is simple. I’m going to elevate it off the ground so rabbits and other furry pests can’t reach the goods. Raising it up 3 feet off the ground ought to do the trick, and it will also be so much easier to work without having to bend over and strain our backs.
The New Raised Bed Design
This new raised bed will be 2’x 8′, and will be 6″ deep. Unlike the 12″ deep raised bed I built last year, this one will be used strictly for leafy greens like lettuce and spinach, so it won’t require too much depth. The bed will be raised 3′ off the ground with four legs, and this should be high enough to keep the critters out.
Supplies for the Raised Bed
As with my other raised bed, I’m going to use untreated lumber. There are plenty of opinions on what type of wood is best to use, but I took the more affordable route. Pressure-treated lumber may last longer, but it’s more expensive and some people believe the chemicals in it are harmful to the garden. Either way, untreated lumber should last at least a few years.
3- 2″ x 6″ x 8′ untreated boards
3- 2″ x 4″ x 8′ untreated boards
A box of 3″ Exterior Decking Screws
An 8′ roll of half-inch grid wire
A roll of shade cloth
T-50 industrial staples
You will also need a screw gun, a circular saw or hand saw, a tape measure, and a T-50 Stapler.
Cut Your Boards to Size
Keep 2 of your 2″ x 6″ boards uncut, as they will serve as the long sides of the bed.
Cut your third 2″ x 6″ into two 21″ pieces for the short sides of the bed.
Cut four 3′ pieces of 2″ x 4″ to be used as the legs/ corners of the raised bed.
Next, cut two 14″ pieces of 2″ x 4″ to be used as end braces between the legs. (You’ll see in a minute.)
Finally, cut four 2′ pieces of 2″ x 4″ to be used as braces for the underside of the bed. These will be used to staple the grid wire to and provide support for the weight of the soil.
Assemble the Sides
Now that you’ve made all the necessary cuts, it’s time to assemble the bed. Start by screwing two legs to either end of a short 2″ x 6″. Repeat for the other end. The result should look like this:
Now, fasten the 8′ sides to the assembled ends, making sure to keep the legs inside. I used two screws on each end to attach the long sides, then I flipped the whole unit upside down as shown:
Attach Support Braces to Bottom
Now that the legs and walls of the raised bed are assembled, it’s time to add the supports on the bottom. If you haven’t flipped the bed upside down as shown above, do so now.
Take your two foot pieces of 2″ x 4″ and space them evenly along the bottom of the raised bed as shown:
Once you’ve attached the bottom braces, flip the whole structure back upright.
Cut Your Grid Wire to Size
Now that the raised bed is built, it’s time to construct the wire bottom. Take your grid wire and lay it over the top of the bed, then use wire cutters to cut it to fit the internal dimensions of the bed.
Staple the Grid Wire in Place
Now that the grid wire is cut to size, it’s time to staple it in place with your T-50 stapler. Staple it right to the bottom braces with five or six staples on each brace.
NOTE: You’ll notice I added a 14″ braces on each end between the legs to provide extra stability and surface area to staple to.
Attach Shade Cloth
The shade cloth is what will actually hold your soil in place so it doesn’t fall through the grid wire. Just lay a large piece over the raised bed, and staple it in so it’s covering the entire interior of the bed.
Add Diagonal Supports Before Filling With Soil
The final piece before filling your raised bed is to add diagonal stabilizer brackets to each corner like so:
Fill Your New Raised Bed!
With construction of your new rabbit-proof raised bed all finished, it’s time to put it where you want it and fill it with soil! We put ours in the backyard where it will get at least 6 hours of sunlight.
For our growing medium, we mixed compost from our compost pile, peat moss, and organic gardening soil.
Finally, with our raised bed all filled up, I just took a knife and carefully cut off all the excess shade cloth so it wouldn’t interfere with our plants.
Conclusion
That’s all there is too it! It only took about forty-five minutes from start to finish, and cost about $50, including the soil and peat moss. This elevated raised bed is actually pretty simple if you understand the concept, so give it a try and let me know how it goes!
For any questions or comments, make sure to reach out below and I’ll be happy to get back to you.
Happy Gardening,
Cody
Thistle Downs Farm